I love a potato—except, it seems, when it's mashed. All too often the Thanksgiving side can be loaded down with too much dairy, studded with big lumps or woefully under-seasoned (remember: potatoes love salt!). This year, I decided to call on one of my favorite sauces, aïoli—the garlicky mayonnaise with origins that trace back to Provençe—to upgrade the beloved dish. Instead of the usual cream and butter, I mixed a bunch of freshly made aïoli into the hot mashed potatoes along with some of their starchy cooking liquid. The result was super rich and perfectly silky, with a smattering of small, skin-on lumps that add a touch of texture. When I made a batch for the TT team, they couldn't believe that there was no dairy, just the egg yolks I used in the aïoli. To finish the dish, I sprinkled some chopped chives, as well as piment d'Espelette for a little smoke and a touch of Basque flavor. I could see myself eating these creamy, luxurious spuds year-round with roast chicken or lamb—not just at the Thanksgiving table.

To make the aioli

1. Drape a kitchen towel over a small saucepan (this will help hold your bowl in place while you whisk). Add egg yolks to a medium heat-safe bowl and set over towel on saucepan.
2. Add water, salt, and garlic to egg yolks, then whisk until fully combined.
3. Whisking constantly, gradually and very slowly drizzle in the olive oil, drop by drop, until the sauce begins to emulsify and has thickened. Continue adding the olive oil in a steady stream, whisking constantly, until all the olive oil is incorporated.

To make the mashed potatoes

1. Place potatoes and bay leaves in a large pot and cover with 2 inches of cold water. Season the water generously with salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are very tender, 18 to 20 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid, and let the potatoes stand until dry.
2. Place the potatoes back into the pot. Using a wooden spoon, smash the potatoes against the side of the pot. Add the reserved cooking liquid and olive oil and continue smashing and stirring vigorously until combined.
3. Place the pot over medium heat, stirring until the potatoes have warmed through, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the potatoes from the heat and stir in half the aioli. The potatoes should look very creamy.
4. Transfer the potatoes to a serving dish and drizzle with remaining aïoli. Garnish with chives and crushed red pepper flakes if desired. Serve warm.

Nellie's Notes

When you're making the aioli, use a buttery pale-golden olive oil rather than one with a peppery finish, which can be overpowering. Taste as you go, as the aioli should be creamy, not too garlicky, and well-seasoned.